This morning, seemed like everyone had something to do, except me. So I decided to go on one of my 'feel good' shopping trips. My first stop was a store that is a national chain. In the home decorating section, I saw they had corals on sale. I went to check out if it was the real thing and turned out that it was poly resin! I heaved a sigh of relief!
Looking at those pieces took me back several years when I was a Research Fellow at a national research institute. I was working for my PhD in Marine Biology. The institute had two research vessels at the time and going on a cruise was part of the deal when you joined. Within 6 months of joining, my research guide announced that a cruise was planned for our department and he had signed me up for it. I had heard so much about these cruises! Two of my friends who were Research Fellows were also going. The cruise was going to the Lakshadweep islands, and it was exciting because none of us had seen coral reefs before. I dug out the snorkeling gear that I had at home. My dad would always buy stuff even if he was not sure when/if we would use it. We had a tent at a time when no one went camping, we had a raft when hardly anyone used one on the beach which we would frequent almost every weekend. We also had this snorkeling gear, which I was so thrilled about suddenly. Soon, my bags were packed and I was ready to go!
The month was April, one of the worst months on the 'hot and humid' scale. Nothing dampened our spirits though, and we looked forward to set sail. We were scheduled to leave with the last pilot, and that was at about 5.30 pm. Dinner time was 6 pm. My friends and I stood on the deck, trying to get our ship basics straight, port side, starboard side, etc. The ship headed out of the harbor, and had to make a sharp left to start heading south into the Arabian Sea. We were just fine until then, it did not feel any different from the ferry I used to ride everyday until I was in grad school, and every weekend now that I had a paying fellowship!
Looking at those pieces took me back several years when I was a Research Fellow at a national research institute. I was working for my PhD in Marine Biology. The institute had two research vessels at the time and going on a cruise was part of the deal when you joined. Within 6 months of joining, my research guide announced that a cruise was planned for our department and he had signed me up for it. I had heard so much about these cruises! Two of my friends who were Research Fellows were also going. The cruise was going to the Lakshadweep islands, and it was exciting because none of us had seen coral reefs before. I dug out the snorkeling gear that I had at home. My dad would always buy stuff even if he was not sure when/if we would use it. We had a tent at a time when no one went camping, we had a raft when hardly anyone used one on the beach which we would frequent almost every weekend. We also had this snorkeling gear, which I was so thrilled about suddenly. Soon, my bags were packed and I was ready to go!
The month was April, one of the worst months on the 'hot and humid' scale. Nothing dampened our spirits though, and we looked forward to set sail. We were scheduled to leave with the last pilot, and that was at about 5.30 pm. Dinner time was 6 pm. My friends and I stood on the deck, trying to get our ship basics straight, port side, starboard side, etc. The ship headed out of the harbor, and had to make a sharp left to start heading south into the Arabian Sea. We were just fine until then, it did not feel any different from the ferry I used to ride everyday until I was in grad school, and every weekend now that I had a paying fellowship!
That's when it suddenly turned, and my middle ear went for a toss! I did not know what hit me, it felt horrible. My friend and I crawled back into our cabin which we shared, and headed straight to bed. I could not think of sitting up, let alone eating. It was such a jarring experience! I fell asleep soon after. The next morning, I sat up, felt a little better, and went out on the deck. I began to feel queasy again, and I ran back to the cabin and onto my bunk. I got a dozen messages from people telling me I would feel worse if I did not eat anything, so I should head to the dining room for breakfast. I could not even think about it. My roommate seemed to be better. The Purser came by to the deck where I had perched myself a little later, to give me some lime and ginger concoction which he said would make me feel better. I had it reluctantly, but soon I was feeling great! Lunch was at 12, and I went into the dining room so ravenous I could have eaten a horse. I ate heartily and began to enjoy my voyage.
This ship was an improvised research vessel, it used to be a very large barge and hence was not high as the other German research vessel our institute owned, nor was it as sophisticated. The Biology lab was at the back and one had to pass the kitchen to get there, something that always made me a little nauseous. This setting did not help even later as one of the visiting scientists had a live coral with running seawater on one side, and it smelt awful!
I was looking forward to visiting the islands. After about 3-4 days, we were told that we would anchor at Minicoy, the southernmost island in the group. I got to learn a few things about navigating rules, like you do not turn on deck lights unless you are anchored, and when you do turn on the lights, which in our case was just outside the lagoon, you can see the most amazing water creatures that come by attracted to the light. Biodiversity is at its best in this very productive region. We arrived there at night, so we could not see much of the island.
What a sight it was the next morning! The blue color was something I had never seen before! We had breakfast and got into a small boat that would take us to the island for a day visit. These little boats were such a pleasure to ride in. The boatmen sometimes let us take the wheel and it was an awesome experience!
Soon we were on the Minicoy island, which we were told is very different from the rest of the islands. It used to be part of the Maldives before. The people wore colorful clothes. Some young children followed us as we looked around. I found cowries, little ones, and asked one little girl where more could be found, she said she would get me some more if I took her picture. I feel so bad that those were not the days of unlimited pictures on a digital camera, and there was no way I could have sent her that picture later. Language was a big barrier. I took her picture and she let me have a small pouchful of cowries.
I fell in love with the beaches there, pearly white sands, and crystal clear blue waters! I was waiting to get into the lagoon. We heard tales of how you could walk in some parts of the lagoon, but carefully, because one wrong step in the mouth of an open giant clam, and that would be 'goodbye' foot! We never really found out if that story was true, and none of us cared to be mythbusters! We did spend about an hour (at Minicoy, and several more on other islands) snorkeling and looking at this amazingly colorful life underwater. Those memories are meant to last a lifetime!
This ship was an improvised research vessel, it used to be a very large barge and hence was not high as the other German research vessel our institute owned, nor was it as sophisticated. The Biology lab was at the back and one had to pass the kitchen to get there, something that always made me a little nauseous. This setting did not help even later as one of the visiting scientists had a live coral with running seawater on one side, and it smelt awful!
I was looking forward to visiting the islands. After about 3-4 days, we were told that we would anchor at Minicoy, the southernmost island in the group. I got to learn a few things about navigating rules, like you do not turn on deck lights unless you are anchored, and when you do turn on the lights, which in our case was just outside the lagoon, you can see the most amazing water creatures that come by attracted to the light. Biodiversity is at its best in this very productive region. We arrived there at night, so we could not see much of the island.
What a sight it was the next morning! The blue color was something I had never seen before! We had breakfast and got into a small boat that would take us to the island for a day visit. These little boats were such a pleasure to ride in. The boatmen sometimes let us take the wheel and it was an awesome experience!
Soon we were on the Minicoy island, which we were told is very different from the rest of the islands. It used to be part of the Maldives before. The people wore colorful clothes. Some young children followed us as we looked around. I found cowries, little ones, and asked one little girl where more could be found, she said she would get me some more if I took her picture. I feel so bad that those were not the days of unlimited pictures on a digital camera, and there was no way I could have sent her that picture later. Language was a big barrier. I took her picture and she let me have a small pouchful of cowries.
I fell in love with the beaches there, pearly white sands, and crystal clear blue waters! I was waiting to get into the lagoon. We heard tales of how you could walk in some parts of the lagoon, but carefully, because one wrong step in the mouth of an open giant clam, and that would be 'goodbye' foot! We never really found out if that story was true, and none of us cared to be mythbusters! We did spend about an hour (at Minicoy, and several more on other islands) snorkeling and looking at this amazingly colorful life underwater. Those memories are meant to last a lifetime!
In the next few days, we visited the Kalpeni, Kavaratti, Kiltan and Chetlat islands.
The smaller islands were a lot of fun. All there was to see were coconut palms, sand and water! You could ask just about anybody for their bicycle and they would lend it to you. We would ride for a couple of miles to get to the end of the island, or to a point where you could see the sea on either side. It was stunningly beautiful! After the ride, you could ask anyone for 'ela neer' or coconut water, and they would climb up a tree and pluck coconuts and offer them to you! Instant tender coconut water! On one island, a man invited all of us to his home. His wife offered us their staple snack, pieces of coconut and dry pieces of tuna! Such friendly people!
Kavaratti is the capital, and is a big island, more city like than any other island. I am talking about 1989-90. Now everything must have changed. We got rice and chicken curry there and nobody would lend us their bicycles. No small town charm here, it was city life! We even saw an auto rickshaw and an Ambassador car.
At night, back on the ship, we would all sit on the deck and sing songs. My research guide was very good with the harmonica, and he would play tons of songs on it. There was an ornithologist from the Indian Institute of Science who was working on a chapter in his PhD thesis on the birds of the islands. He played the guitar, and we would all sing anything ranging from 'hai apna dil to awara' (very harmonica based), 'yeh raatein yeh mausam nadi ka kinara' (in the middle of the Arabian Sea.. Ha..) to Simon and Garfunkel's 'Cecilia'! Those singing evenings were so much fun!
It was a trip of a lifetime for me. I made another trip there the next year. That one helped me publish my very first paper in Botanica Marina, a Canadian Marine Biology journal. It was the first for me as the first author, so that paper has a special place in my heart, and the Lakshadweep islands made it happen, so they are very special too!
The corals in their natural setting are a thing to see, with all those beautiful little creatures nestling among them, co-existing for years. They look lovely where they are, and it is best to let them be that way.
